Custom Workstation

Passion for the Craft shows! Not only a Cool Display in itself but for figures as well!

Impressive & ambitious!

Too kind my friend !!!

Another alternative to boiling water is using a hair dryer to heat up the pieces. I use an OLD, compact hair dryer which I've rigged up on its side, usually haven't had any problems with it messing up the paint. though when I have it's usually been because I was rushing to get a figure assembled and the paint didn't have adequate time to dry. Now, I'll basically give, at minimum, 30 minutes between coats, but at least 24 hours for the paint to properly dry once I've finished. I don't do much sculpting, and haven't run into any issues with the little I've done. Regardless, I always try to be careful assembling (and sometimes disassembling) painted parts to avoid accidentally damaging my work.

Thanks for the suggestions. I had the feeling that was the case with boiling prepainted/sculpted pieces.

•I don't recommend Tamiya for beginners. It's an alcohol based acrylic so it dries fast, making it tough to handpaint and get coverage unless you thin it just right. It's better for airbrushing. I recommend Formula P3 or Testors instead (water based acrylics).

•Why can't you just sand or scrape away old paint before sculpting on an area?

•I usually sculpt, then paint, then assemble a figure, but there are always exceptions, this isn't an exact science. Boil water and use a pipette to flood holes with hot water to soften up the plastic. Drain the water and pop the arm/leg/head/whatever back on as usual. The more you do this stuff the more techniques you come up with, how to hold things so they don't get damaged, keep your hands clean, keep dust out of your paint, etc. ...

Thanks for the honest review of my products. To be honest - the P2 Clonetrooper helmets shouldn't have had any of those defects... they might have been from an older mold that was past it's useful life. I don't think I've made any in a while but I'll take a better look at the mold, it might be time to replace it.

As for the size issue - while I can understand your request for including a picture of what types of figures it might fit on.... in my experience that's a bad idea. Here's why: 99.9% of eBay buyers have a combined IQ of 8 and see a picture of a figure and a head cast or a painted head cast and think that's what they are getting. No matter how many times I post in the listing description - even going so far as to put text ON THE PICTURES - it doesn't matter. Buyer sees a painted ...

figured you are a " He " but I didn't want to assume!!!! LOL !!!

I am a HUGE fan of starwarsgeeks work !!! Both the casted heads and the posted customs on this site. Many of my posted customs have his ( or hers )castings!!!
Thanks for givein him ( or her ) the deserved love and attention.
LONG LIVE THE RELM!!!!!

I have made them from various materials..... cardboard folded and covered with felt, or wrap the blade with a piece of plastic wrap then shape scabbard out of clay or procreate over the wrapped blade , wiggleing it every so often, so it had some space inside the cavity ....seem to be the best and last the longest ( so far )

Baking Soda causes the glue to solidify instantly, and the material can be sanded, painted, etc. It's a good gap filler.

You can speed up the glue cure time by spraying a mist of water too, no baking soda needed, Gorilla Glue has some glues that even require a water spray.

Some plastics refuse to bond with superglue, for example, the bottle that contains the glue itself. If youre trying to glue platic of that kind, youre gonna have problems. ...

Try using (Cyanoacrylate) Superglue and Baking Soda.

I've seen that trick used on windshields. Is that better than using just the glue along with a kicker, which just speeds up the process but doesn't do much to add extra strength, which I'm assuming the baking powder does? Probably also acts as a filler...

I hope this all makes sense...

You can use EcoFlex 00-50. It's a cast you can pour into a silicone mold, like OOMOO 30.

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